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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Problems with AutoRide
Good point about the hitch, BurbMan. I have replaced my hitch with a Curt hitch. When I used to tow with a Tahoe, I could never get my Equal-i-zer set up right and always had some porpoising. I put a Curt hitch on the Tahoe and things got much better. When I bought the Suburban, I transferred the hitch and it tows like a dream.
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rfduval
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07/23/08 04:47pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Problems with AutoRide
Thanks for the replies everyone. The dealer has told me that even though I am getting a signal to 'service ride control' that everything is working fine. But I would need to replace the shcok to get the alarm to clear. He says they will not disable autoride because of liability reasons. I guess I will drive it with the alarm on or maybe try to just pull a fuse and see what happens. Like I said before, towing does not seem to be effected.
rayt1 - I will try to send you a private message about my towing performance. If it doesn't work, I'll come back here to reply. In short - towing is great.
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rfduval
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07/23/08 07:27am |
Tow Vehicles
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Problems with AutoRide
Sorry, I seem to be more of a 'taker' here than a 'giver'. Seems I only post when I have a problem but I have got a lot of help and information here in the past and once again would like to draw on your collective experience.
My 2001 3/4 ton Suburban showed the message to 'service autoride'. It was diagnosed and the Left/Rear sensor was replaced (something around $300). Took it home - alarm was cleared - took it out a week later and alarm message was back. This time the dealer says it is showing the Left/Rear shock is faulty ($500 or more). I did tow about 400 miles before the first repair and could see no problems with the ride or anything. I suppose the shock still dampens but may not adjust height anymore. The Suburban only has 21,000 actual miles.
What are my options?
1. I rarely tow so can the Autoride be disabled completely?
2. Replace 1 or all shocks with standard shocks?
3. Replace the bad shock and start saving money for the next one?
4. Just keep driving with one faulty shock?
5. Anything else?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
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rfduval
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07/22/08 08:00am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Suburban Torsion bar leveling
Thanks for the replies everyone. It seems then that my front height compared to rear height is the way it should be. The fact that I am resting on my front bump stops is normal. The only change I will make is to get my front end level right to left. I will give this a try when I decide to get new tires and alignment.
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rfduval
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05/10/08 11:32am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 3/4 ton Suburban Autoride questions
Thanks for the replies. I was worried that I didn't have the 'autoride' shocks after all but it seems that I do. My owners manual was very general about the suspension system. It mentioned different setups but said things like,"you may have this system or you may have......." Not much help.
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rfduval
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05/09/08 03:27pm |
Tow Vehicles
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Suburban Torsion bar leveling
While taking some measurements on my 2001 3/4 ton Suburban I found that the front end left side sits lower than the right side by almost an inch. Is this the way it should be? It looks like it could easily by brought to level by adjusting the torsion bar on the left side.
Also, I noticed that I am sitting right on the bump stops in the front - not hard pressure on them but touching. Does this seem right?
Third - the Suburban sits about 2 1/2 inches lower in the front in relation to the rear. This also looks like it could be changed by adjustment to the torsion bars (would likely need an alignment afterwards). Is this the way it should be or should I bring the front up to level with the rear?
As far as towing goes, I use an 'Equalizer' (brand name) hitch that corrects for any leveling issues that the geometry of the suspension may be causing.
On a related but separate post, I have questions about the 'Autoride' feature if you care to take a look.
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rfduval
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05/09/08 08:45am |
Tow Vehicles
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3/4 ton Suburban Autoride questions
I bought a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban with 'Autoride'. I have never noticed any leveling effect from the rear shocks and when I look at them I see nothing about them that indicates anything different from normal shocks. I expected to see an air line to each shock and some king of inflatable rubber boot around each one. Nothing...
While trying to find information on the internet about this I did find one statement that the 3/4 ton model with 'Autoride' does not have the leveling feature, only variable damping in the shocks. Can anyone verify this and tell me what I should expect to see under there?
I also have a question about the front suspension in a separate post if you don't mind taking a look.
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rfduval
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05/09/08 08:36am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Do paralleled batteries need to be identical?
Thanks for the quick responses everyone. There seems to be no argument that matching batteries are needed.
Since I have to buy two new batteries I will take a close look at using 6 volt batteries in series.
Thanks again, everyone.
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rfduval
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01/13/08 09:56am |
Travel Trailers
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Do paralleled batteries need to be identical?
I plan to go to 2-12 volt batteries wired in parallel in my camper.
Can I use a new battery along with my existing battery (which is still good but several years old) or do the batteries have to be closely matched as far as ratings and performance?
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rfduval
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01/13/08 08:36am |
Travel Trailers
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